beneath this hallucination


(Note: I publish a day earlier than what you read here. I took the day off from bicycling yesterday and, therefore, moved this regular Sunday post to Monday—today. Today I’m riding north again, and if you tune in tomorrow, you’ll read about it then. Thanks for reading.)

Memorable Stuff I Read This Week

His monsters and mistresses take on the shape of your face, the movement of your hands, your body a shadow beneath this hallucination of America, slowly dying

— Monica Ong / “Yellow Insomnia”


For Vaughan each crashed car set off a tremor of excitement, in the complex geometries of a dented fender, in the unexpected variations of crushed radiator grilles, in the grotesque overhang of an instrument panel forced on to a driver’s crotch as if in some calibrated act of machine fellatio.

The intimate time and space of a single human being had been fossilized for ever in this web of chromium knives and frosted glass.

— J. G. Ballard / Crash


War-doing is a cycle
of trial and error.

Death-giving is permission
to trial and error.

— Mai Der Vang / “Procedures in Hunt of Wreckage” / Yellow Rain


I won’t bother correcting Trump’s numbers. Instead, I have a question. Who said Gazans are worried about dying? There are many people around the world who worry about dying, including some Americans who don’t have health insurance or who live in areas that are at risk of wildfires. But our worry is not about dying. Palestinians are worried about being killed by Israeli soldiers, settlers, bombs, and bullets. How do you stop people from being killed? Not by removing the people who have been shot and bombed—but by stopping the people who are doing the shooting and bombing. 

— Mosab Abu Toha / “Gaza Must Be Rebuilt by Palestinians, for Palestinians” / The New Yorker


Where the sword decides and  
Foucault lectures to the ghosts of crows 
about sex and the biopolitic. 
And what of colonialism? they squawk,  
Y que del negro atado?  

— Mónica Alexandra Jiménez / “Theft”


“Why did God set it up like this?” Rachel asked. “With them as masters and us as slaves?”

“There is no God, child. There’s religion but there’s no God of theirs. Their religion tells that we will get our reward in the end.

However, it apparently doesn’t say anything about their punishment. But when we’re around them, we believe in God. Oh, Lawdy Lawd, we’s be believin’. Religion is just a controlling tool they employ and adhere to when convenient.”

— Percival Everett / James


But the proposed reversal would be truly and deeply disgraceful—not just climate denial but basic-science denial. In the ongoing debate about whether our current dystopia is Orwellian or Huxleyan, this is true “1984” stuff, the periodic table equivalent of “War is peace” and “Freedom is slavery.”

— Bill McKibben / “Trump’s E.P.A. Seeks to Deny Science That Americans Discovered” / The New Yorker

What I’m Listening To:

Some of us are illegal, and some are not wanted
Our work contract’s out and we have to move on
Six hundred miles to that Mexican border
They chase us like outlaws, like rustlers, like thieves
We died in your hills, we died in your deserts
We died in your valleys and died on your plains
We died ‘neath your trees and we died in your bushes
Both sides of the river, we died just the same

Is this the best way we can grow our big orchards?
Is this the best way we can grow our good fruit?
To fall like dry leaves to rot on my topsoil
And be called by no name except “deportees”

— Woody Guthrie / “Deportee (Plane Wreck at Los Gatos)”

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good-bye keys

Shakedown in Rearview

That’s the turn on my Wahoo bike gps that lead me out of the Florida Keys. A cool 66 degree morning that looked something like this from the top of the Lake Surprise bridge:

A morning of bewildering choices… huh?…

… and surprising views:

I immediately hit construction—at one point I was shoehorned in to a six-inch shoulder. Yikes! Luckily a massive dump truck carrying fill (out of frame left) slowed traffic down to my speed of 12-15 mph.

Later all northbound traffic was diverted to one lane, and I got free reign of two lanes undergoing construction:

Headwinds again made for a tougher ride, and the scenery looked much like this for 15 miles:

I forgot to mark the 100-mile point, but I sorta’ like the symmetry of mile 111.

Great for bird watching: snowy egrets, great blue herons, ibis, and what looked like ospreys to me from afar—but most birds wanted nothing to do with a bicyclist-errant fending off gusts on a desolate highway.

See, that’s me, your host staying clear of the rumble strip:

This was a sight for a sore ass needing a break:

Good-bye keys… I entered the county of thee old hometown. I can already taste the Cuban home cooking. But first, a lot more of this:

And here’s the craziest street crossing yet—an insanely busy US 1 at Florida City:

On the South Dade Trail for another 20-miles of traffic-free riding:

A stop at my cool uncle’s and cooler aunt’s place for Cuban coffee and brief ass-pain relief… groovy, man!

… that man makes a mean latte, Cuban style; and she is a gifted artisan of all things yarn and jewels…

… and now I spy my mother’s (tall-building festooned) neighborhood in the distance…

only 3 miles to go… and a new dayglo green bike lane went in this week…

… and I’m finally at my mother’s place on Biscayne Bay—with the Key Biscayne bridge in the distance that stood in for the 7-mile bridge, et al., on my training rides:

And! I’m done with the Keys, and the ass-tumescence.

In fact, I was so tired I almost inadvertently used this as underarm deodorant:

Oy! Let’s just call it a good first 3 days!

Day 3
Start: Key Largo, FL
End: Miami, FL
Miles: 56.34

Tomorrow (today) is an ass-rest and gear reevaluation day. (Yes, my ass status is an intentional leitmotif here… until it is no more—then you will no longer be saddled [heh!] with it again).

What I’m Reading:

Even when I write about events in my own life . . . it’s not really me. 

— Susan Sontag / “The Art of Fiction No. 143” / The Paris Review

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so this was…

… interesting…

… to say the least. There were so many buses parked across the street yesterday, and I was so bone tired, that I failed to notice the GULF OF MEXICO right across the street from the hotel (which you may see a smidgen of at the extreme left of the panoramic shot).

Coolish and very windy all day—strong headwinds and crosswinds—gusting up to 20 miles per hour and steady at 14-16 mph all day. Oy! But it was thrilling to be off of US 1 for the first couple of miles in these mangrove thickets…

… but then it was straight into the wind tunnels, completely exposed to the full force of the headwind with tractor trailers, huge SUV’s pulling boats and most people speeding like demented demons…

… which is why I appreciate these cool little parallel bridges (old highway US 1) as brief, safer, havens for bikers…

… walkers and fisher folk…

… so wide open and traffic free…

… that action pics are de rigueur (if you’re not blown off the bridge by the 20-mile gusts)…

… one may even stop for a right arm with bike still life selfie (I did, for what it’s worth)…

… that’s me, your host with a sore ass!

Now this traffic and debris free (wide) shoulder is more to my liking…

… and so are these benches that the state of Florida sprinkles about the trail near state parks (this is near Long Key State Park)…

… see, I was here.

I was blown sideways, perilously close to the guardrail and the choppy, salty, Atlantic on this bridge into Islamorada…

… so I rewarded myself with some home cooking: a croqueta de jamón and a cortadito (look it up) at Ohio Key… see them half consumed on my bike seat?

On Tea Table Key there are memorial plaques to Ponce de Leon, the Cuban Rafters of the 1980’s and 1990’s, and to the lost Spanish fleet of 1733 that disappeared in a hurricane bearing plundered Incan gold and silver.

This, apropos of the midway point between Key West and Miami, is an excellent place to stop for lunch or breakfast…

… baked goods and a chocolate almond milk, peanut butter and banana smoothie for me (now my thing) to power into the afternoon…

… colorful anyway, and very good eats!

Just down the road, in Islandmorada, stands a monument to the civilian and veteran victims of the (still) record strongest hurricane on Labor Day, 1935.

Over 300 people lost their lives and the “Hurricane Monument” memorializes the tragedy.

North of Islamorada one has the choice of the four foot wide bike lane “shoulder” or the 8-foot wide sidewalk… I choose the one not so roar of traffic-addled and debris-strewn…

… but even here some iguanas aren’t so lucky…

… it wasn’t me, I just documented it…

… and finally, temperature controlled ass-recovery in effect again …

… this place has its own beachlet on the GULF OF MEXICO side… and I’m eating every bit of this dinner after burning 2,074 calories during today’s ride…

… which looked like this on the map…

… inconsequential elevation changes, but tough riding due to the high headwinds and crosswinds out of the northwest.

Day 2
Start: Marathon, FL
End: Key Largo, FL
Miles: 49.2 miles

My old hometown and good Cuban cooking await tomorrow (today) in Miami.

What I’m Reading:

Don’t forget that although you aren’t telling a story, you must still do what stories do, which is lead the reader through an experience. Don’t forget that the book will exist in the future. Don’t forget to write, even if it’s going nowhere. Don’t forget to write, even though it will never be published. 

— Sheila Heti / Alphabetical Diaries

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peripatetic writing fool

Hello!

This is your peripatetic writing fool host brining you dispatches from the East Coast Greenway Trail (hopefully! providing all goes well … and sing to the crows it does) over the next 60-75 days (very roughly).

Huh? What’s that East CoastGreenway Trail, Bucky?

Yeah, well, it’s a roughly 3,000 mile mixed-use trail from Key West, FL to Calais, ME (specifically the Canadian border at the Calais / St. Stephen, NB, Canada border crossing) or vice versa if you’re headed southbound.

After eight years of mulling it over, one aborted attempt, and another thwarted by two hurricanes last year… I’m on my way northbound on this macadam (mostly) road (no yellow bricks yet) and occasional gravel forays. See the map below.

Image: greenway.org

So yesterday was day 1–starting from the southernmost point in the continental U.S., and it looked something like this at 6:35 am:

I caught the sun rising as I headed north on Atlantic Blvd. In Key West:

And on one occasion during a cloud occlusion it looked like this:

Pretty gnarly stuff for 6:58 am. The Florida Straits, fed by the GULF OF MEXICO, never looked finer to me.

The trail often uses the road shoulder of a very busy US 1:

And sometimes you’re diverted onto bike/ped trails, blissfully, away from traffic into mangrove thickets on a boardwalk:

Where one might find the classic Florida Keys mordant humor on display:

You can take a break at your own open air hut looking out at the intracoastal waterways at Pine Channel Nature Park (at least I did after 30 miles):

I figure Jacksonville, FL is a couple of weeks away at the speed of the pedal, crankshaft, cassette and wheels (yes, I know there are myriad other parts to bikes, but four are enough here…)

I visited thee quintessential countercultural health food store with a great staff and the best type of modern day conspiracy…

Best chocolate almond milk, organic peanut butter and banana smoothie I’ve ever consumed … (the only one come to think of it) it set a high standard, man…

it was bitchin’, man… remember, the dude abides! Anyway it was the perfect boost before tackling 7 miles of bridge:

The roar of traffic, the 18-wheelers creating wind vortexes, 10-12 mile gusting headwinds… squeals, squelches… and so much god-damned debris on the shoulder of the road / the trail:

Oh, the humanity! Oh the bolts, rods, jumper cable clamps, rusted allen wrenches, multiple bird carcasses, glass, bottle caps, discarded pee bottles… really, people! Wait and use the garbage cans in town. Oy! Finally the endpoint of the day was in sight: Marathon Key, FL.

A libation with shrimp, sausage and bacon as a pay-off for 55 miles on a head-windy bike!

More fun and wet frolic from locals before hitting the day’s endpoint:

Oh, the joy of being away from the ever present roar of traffic, and out of the headwinds, in temperature controlled comfort. My ass is literally grass… Tarnation, it’s sore!

And, damn it! they’re out of fish food here!

Day 1
Start: Key West, FL
End: Marathon, FL
Miles: 57.91

What I’m Reading:

The Old Seven Mile Bridge is the longest over water railway expanse of the Keys. The Overseas Railroad, used primarily for passenger service, provided customers direct travel up and down the Atlantic Coast with a trip from New York City to Key West taking 44 hours.

— Interpretive Sign at Pine Channel Nature Park / Big Pine Key, FL

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this is coming

soon…

What I’m Reading:

I stand for a long time. I think. I think. I think. I think.
It makes the whole world bright and invisible at the same time.

— Anne de Marcken / The Accident

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in this (my) neighborhood pt. 83

What I’m Reading:

‘Another cargo of eager victims—one almost expects to see Breughel and Hieronymus Bosch cruising the freeways in their rental-company cars.’

— J.G. Ballard / Crash

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martyrs and brandy

sloop on a loop

kneading each other
this short flicker film
a protest sloop on a loop
at a tax and stay caravan
affixed to martyrs and brandy
the birthday violation
the fighter as a circle
who gained footage of world expansion
the spiritualist from these broadcasts occasionally overpowering the fiercely militant drawing-room in radical decorum

go figure
eleven years later

What I’m Reading:

Beware the Jabberwock, my son!
The jaws that bite, the claws that catch
Beware the Jubjub bird, and shun
The frumious Bandersnatch!

— Lewis Carroll / Through the Looking Glass

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pitched evoke image

American Scree 19 (erasure / blot poem #66)

He demons in language.
During his compositions 
not to cognition

The letters instead

The letters
kind of flashy
correspond to kind
of potential colors,
whose called for colors,

high pitched
evoke
image

lights imagery,
a whole kind of city
distanced from

emphasis on his
bold language 
of commerce.

What I’m Reading:

Every day there is a little less moon in the sky. No detail
too delicate to be obliterated.

— Anne de Marcken / The Accident

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color of waiting

Memorable Stuff I Read This Week

Every line of serious work that I have written since 1936 has been written, directly or indirectly, against totalitarianism and for democratic Socialism, as I understand it.

— George Orwell / “Why I Write”


Ten thousand miles away
in a chair at a screen in a box wait can be read
as fire.

— Caitlin Roach / “The Inheritance of Intelligence”


My brain is not unlike the Syracuse grey matter sky, the color of waiting.

There is no school, no work today. The county has run out of rock salt for the roads and a winter storm is coming (so they say). Departments are being dismantled. Paper straws have been banned.

My husband thinks AI is the scariest thing no one is talking about.

Ray Bradbury suggests making a list of ten things you hate, and tearing them down in your art. Then write ten things you love, and celebrate them. 

— Laura Carnes Williams / “Thought Vomit” / Substack


A cool voice giving hourly updates
on the bombing of another city which it called
the conflict

— Margaret Ross / “Evolution”


Human misery would be intolerable if it were not diluted in time. We have to prevent it from being diluted in order that it should be intolerable.

— Simone Weil / Gravity and Grace


I read that this year’s our copper anniversary

I will ask for a copper penis as a gift, to stir jam

Maybe next year a lot of fruit will grow at the cottage?

— Zan de Parry / “Copper Anniversary”


We are so seldom told the truth. And Hamlet, in Hamlet, Shakespeare tells us we don’t know enough about life to know what the good news is and the bad news is. And we respond to that.

Thank you, Bill.

— Kurt Vonnegut / “Kurt Vonnegut on Story Construction” / The Memory Hole, Substack

What I’m Listening To:

Where’d you go?
Far far far away
Where’d you go? Ooh
Far far, if all the welders in the world took this pipe and made it right again oh-weh-oh
Dah-doo-dah-dah-doo-dah-dah

— Horsegirl / “Where’d you go?”

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but take it

a cemetery assortment 

a wedding for a cemetery assortment
of chests hired to capture crab apples worldwide
apples with no stunt-phrase or apple handlers
the cast—including a fifty-five-year-old forest of dreck during the eight sublime shares spliced by ages with runways in jumbles across the vast velocity veldt, villages suicide to keep up

a noose is flung around nature
for the ring of her cries

surely, if you weren’t impotent
you would be shouting
but there ain’t a thing you could do but take it
take it like those who didn’t bother to leave
the house to vote
let that bite you in places

set a ring around this circus

What I’m Reading:

Then we’ve got to take to the streets in a different way. We’ve got to shut down this country. . . We’re just beginning to think it through. We’re talking with colleagues and other organizations. There’s got to be a moment when people of good will will just say, This is way too far.

— Anthony Romero, to David Remnick / “We Might Have to “Shut Down the Country” / The New Yorker

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