it responded well

The Plan

Yesterday I did what I’ve wanted to do most — I got on my bike and rode it a few miles.

image: Ride with GPS

My knee responded to treatment and time off. I tested it with a short 10.4 mile ride around my neighborhood, and it, again, responded well to treatment afterward.

Today I’ll go out on the commuter train and bike in to Boston from Newburyport, MA — about 48 miles — without panniers or extraneous gear. This allows me the opportunity to cover the mileage and treat the knee at home overnight — and the option to easily seek medical attention if necessary — and to spend the night at home.

If this turns out well, I’ll repeat something like this for a few days using Amtrak’s Downeaster service that runs from Boston to Brunswick, ME — I’ll then end up at home each night.

I’ve plotted out an itinerary in the event all goes well today. At a certain point, probably Freeport, ME, I’ll return to the route with my gear and no longer return home in the evenings. I’m also taking a zero day on Sunday for the sake of the knee. Breaking the remainder of the bike tour into two 4 day blocks.

If this works it’ll be four days of using train service, covering the mileage, and coming back home — followed by an off-day — then four days of biking with a lighter load of gear up to Lubec, ME.

That’s the plan.

What I’m Reading:

Of all of the greenway projects underway in America, the East Coast Greenway is by far the most ambitious. Back in 1991, city planners from Boston, New York, and Washington, D.C., came together with the idea of connecting their independent greenways. That vision grew to become the East Coast Greenway, a multi-purpose trail that would connect Calais, Maine to Key West, Florida. The goal: Encourage non-motorized travel for work and recreation. More than three decades in the making, 65 percent of the Greenway is completed or in advanced stages of development. It’s already become one of America’s most visited parks, with an estimated 50 million cyclists and pedestrians using the greenway annually.

— Jen Murphy / “A Bike Trail that Connects Moose to Manatees” / Substack

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moment of disonance

image: p. remer

Detoured into Ice

Nothing new to report on the cycling front. One more day off while I “plannify” — yes, still plannifyin’ to finish this ride which has detoured into a an icy convalescence. Detoured and detuned. A moment of dissonance follows:

… And apropos of nothing some Sturm und Drang


Disconnect

Have you ever felt like a one trick pony?
Have you ever seethed day in and day out?

We screamed. We protested. We sat-in.
We occupied.

We are in a persistent somnolence—
In a pathological spiral of disconnect.

I can’t know what I’m unable to perceive.
I only know this, what we do, is insane.


I iced and I iced until my brain disconnected, until my vagus nerve went into deep freeze, until I detoured America with horns. 

If my knee returns to human dimensions I will be out riding tomorrow, if it remains looking like a leaden zeppelin — like a denatured dirigible — then I shall not be out cycling, but psycho-ling is a definite possibility. 

Let’s hope sanity wins out and that the general practitioner and orthopedic specialist go without a new referral. 

Find out tomorrow . . .

What I’m Reading:

If I die, this very moment,
no one will finish what I set out
to say. What will you do then,
my misery?

— Selma Asotić / “Landscape with footprints in ash”

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the usual treatment

Worcester, MA.

The Knead to Rest the Knee

No, I didn’t take a complete day off for the sake of the knee. I substantially reduced my biking to errands — biking back home after returning a rental car (3.28 miles), riding home after picking up my bicycle after the tubeless tire conversion (7.39 miles). I also took a short recreational ride to stay in form on Saturday morning (8.55 miles), and I biked Sunday from Worcester to Framingham, MA (24.24 miles) to complete the Worcester to Boston ride I was going to take Wednesday when I came home to ostensibly take a few days off before heading out to finish the bike tour and ride up to Lubec, ME.

Those are not high mileages, nor did those rides involve substantial elevation gains. But my right knee seems to insist on complete rest or it will continue to painfully swell after every ride, no matter how short. So it seems a complete off-day (or two?) is required. Not a light stationary bike ride, or a quick 5 mile jaunt, no! Completely off my feet, icing, and anti-inflammatory treatment.

But first, about the ride from Worcester: short, breezy, and inspiring — except the cantaloupe-sized knee I got in return.

It occurred to me while riding through towns like Westborough, Southborough, Grafton, Ashland, et al., that there are some very cool towns and villages that I’ve never been to in the 28 years we’ve lived in Massachusetts — and I’d like to see more neat town greens, quaint village centers, and homes built in 1719 or 1732.

So if I’m lucky enough to finish this tour with two healthy knees, my next long ride will be through the state of Massachusetts — east, west, north and south. 

After leaving Worcester center I traversed some of the hilly neighborhoods of the Worcester and Grafton Hills.

I was surprised to find that Tufts University had a Veterinary Campus and Hospital in Grafton, MA — set among the of farmlands of central Mass.

And replete with public art and historic structures like Locust Barn above. Grafton, MA.

The town circle in Westborough, MA.

Skirting the Ashland Town Forest. A town forest! How cool is that? Ashland, MA.

As I’ve ridden various routes from Framingham to Boston in the past, I decided — or rather, my right knee decided — to call the Framingham Commuter Rail station the terminal point of today’s ride at 24.2 miles instead of 47.5 miles to Jamaica Plain (Boston).

Now no gaps exist between Worcester and Boston for me on a bicycle. I was experiencing new knee discomfort and reduced flexion, which is alarming, so prudence was necessary for the sake of the longer ride.

 I waited for Pattie to drive over from Natick, MA at the station. I’m trying to sort out how to move ahead and finish this 2,800+ mile ride. If I can’t bend my leg fully and pain free, I can’t pedal. I must stay off my knee for a couple of days.

Day 31:
Start: Worcester, MA
Finish: Framingham, MA
Miles: 24.2

After what is considered very light bicycling mileage the past few days: 3.28 miles, 8.55 miles, 7.54 miles, and 24.24 miles — fractions of what I’d be doing bike touring — my knee is not responding to the usual treatment of icing and anti-inflammatories.

The variable has been that I’ve continued to bike — albeit low mileage — and so I have to adjust the variable and take a complete day (or two) off my knee if I’m to continue to bike to Lubec, ME.

I’m taking (at the least) Monday off in hopes of seeing a substantial reduction in swelling. If the condition of my right knee does not improve it will require medical attention. So here’s to a day of rest, icing, and ibuprofen — and hopes of an improved knee Tuesday morning.

What I’m Reading:

If the past decade of post-truth politics have siloed us in our political subsets by removing the floorboards of a shared reality, then the post-meaning age risks isolating us in silos of one, unable to commune with even those we might see as allies. (Another question is how do we protest effectively and act collectively if we are starved of a collective language?) Isolation and a dependence on AI for any task in which writing (or thought) is required fosters the conditions for further dependence; ultimately it leads to atrophy, to an inability to think for ourselves.

— Matt Greene / “On the Rise of ChatGPT and the Industrialization of the Post-Meaning World” / Lithub

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become networked datums

Memorable Stuff I Read This Week

Consciousness is a miracle, truly, and remains the deepest of mysteries, yes, but it is also so very simple that it can fit into a sentence: I open my eyes and a world appears.

— Michael Pollan / A World Appears: A Journey Into Consciousness


Our world has been flooded by a deluge of digital platforms, their ceaseless flow submerging our daily lives. From the planetary infrastructures of Amazon, Meta, Google, Apple, WeChat, and Alibaba, to the on-demand labor of Uber, Didi, Upwork, and Deliveroo, we’ve become networked datums in digital portfolios. The infrastructures of capitalism now flow through cables and cloud servers that states have been slow and economically disincentivized to regulate. We are all paying rent in the internet of landlords. This is an evolving machinery in which datafication facilitates dispossession.

— Matthew Cole / “The Digital Economy is Destroying Our Lives and Our Planet—and AI is Only Going to Make It Worse” / lithub.com


Nowhere is a person free when men cage other men. Nowhere is America. Nowhere. Maybe a gap between a boy’s baby teeth. Maybe a legion of milkless mothers. A lit match. An unbolted cage.

— Jeanann Verlee / “Peril, Ignored”


Thousands of cities are decoupling economic growth from the burning of fossil fuels. Researchers compared levels of the greenhouse gas nitrogen dioxide (NO2) with information on gross domestic product (GDP) to track the green development trajectories of more than 5,000 of the world’s biggest cities. About 2,000 cities showed improvement in both metrics between 2019 and 2024 — most of them in China.

— Flora Graham / “The cities getting ‘richer and cleaner’” / Nature Brief


a garland
for the body
forming a garland
for the body . . .

— John Giorno / “Lucky Man”


All I see in hindsight is the chaos of history repeated, over and over, reenacted, reinterpreted, the world, its fucked-up heart palpitating underneath us, failing, messing up again and again as it winds its way around a sun. And in the middle of it all, tribes, families, people, all beautiful things falling apart, debris, dust, erasure.

— Valeria Luiselli / Lost Children Archives


I think cycling and my cycling mental state are very closely linked to the mental state that I want to be in for writing … Both require the motivation to practise over and over again, even if you’re struggling with the messy middle or terrible weather.

— Hannah Marais / “The Tandem Qualities of Writing and Cycling” / Cycling

What I’m Listening To:

He says, “Only the strong survive”
You don’t get to decide what strength is
Not today
I’m a daydream unbeliever

— Shearwater / “Daydream Unbeliever”


The Cycling Front

Today I’ll be riding the gap in from Worcester, MA and closing the gap here in Massachusetts.

I’ll also finalize plans for the final push to Lubec, Maine later this week.

And enjoy the comforts of home, while hopefully being kinder to my cranky right knee.

Read about it here tomorrow.

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an idealized version

A Credit Card Tour?

I must admit that spending time off the bike is feeling very good to me.

I achieved the main objective when I set out from Key West last year — to complete a cross country bike ride from Key West, FL to Calais, ME (at the Canadian border). I’d intended to do it all in one go — from one terminus point to another — but true to life, it was messy and unpredictable. It took two seasons as opposed to being one continuous and contiguous ride; and it ended at a strange and unpredicted place in Thompson — Quinebaug, CT. Not the most photogenic of places.


The Quick Mart & Smoke Inc. Thompson — Quinebaug, CT

I had an idealized version of how this Key West to Canada ride would unspool in mind, but it never included the particular route I chose overall, nor the Quick Mart & Smoke Inc. as its celebratory terminal point. But I’ll take it and embrace it, as it was the culmination of my dream (despite not being my dream ride). Done!


February 27, 2025, Key West, FL.

May 1, 2025, Calais, ME.

But that begs the question: what about Lubec, Maine? And why now? — as I’m done and feeling comfortable, and my knee is returning to human dimensions.

Well precisely because the Quick Mart is such an inauspicious place to “finish” a ride. And because when I set out this year from Georgetown, SC I never intended to stop once I merely closed the last gap. I set out to bike to the northeastern most point of the Unites States. And I feel as if I go back out and accomplish that, even though I’ve ridden the entirety of Maine over the last 2 years, I will really finish what I set out to do this year — and Quoddy Head State Park is an infinitely better and more photogenic ending than the Quick Mart and Smoke Inc.


Image: Howard LaPorte

The first bike related chore I did upon returning home was to take my bike in to my local bike shop (Landry’s Bicycles on Commonwealth Ave) and convert over to a tubeless tire set-up. That two hour ordeal, last week in Yonkers, NY, changing the first flat on these new Tracer tires was painfully instructive — and something I don’t wish to repeat anytime soon.

On the ride home I got my first introduction to a sealant shower as the over-pressurized tire seated and a little micro-puncture reopened, but the tire sealed quickly and the tubeless tire set-up  did its job.

Now I’m in planning mode for the upcoming homestretch to Lubec, ME. I’m using Claude, Perplexity, and Gemini (LLM / AI’s) as starting points which I’ll refine with Ride with GPS and Google Maps road view. The reason I’m doing this level of planning is because my knee is still a bit balky and the swelling will now be a chronic thing as long as I’m biking daily. 

I’m going to limit myself to 45-50 mile days — shorter days for the sake of my knee (swelling, flexion, and pain management) and I’m going to plan this out as a set daily itinerary. I normally don’t like to over plan my bike tours like this, but due to the circumstances I think it behooves me to keep mileage low and know that I’ll be able to ice my knee down every night.

Sample of Claude (AI) itinerary.

Sample of Claude (AI) itinerary.

Believe me, my knee would rather I do this … 

… but knowing myself, and my “completist / non-gapist” tendencies — I need to ride to Lubec, ME and finish what I set out to do on May 1st.

So I’m taking a few days off, mostly for the knee, but also to tweak some gear and to plan a set itinerary from here to Lubec, ME.

I’m taking some low mileage rides around the neighborhood to keep the knee flexion supple, and to keep form, but not so much mileage as to exacerbate the swelling.

And I love riding my (still new) bike naked (read: unloaded and unencumbered by panniers) and it now only weighs 19 lbs without the tubes. It feels very fast and extremely responsive.

Which begs another question: if I have a set daily itinerary, and reserve lodging in advance, why not leave the tent and cooking gear at home and really lighten my load? What’s called in the bike touring world — “credit card touring.” 

That is, lightening the load — staying at hotel, motels, & Air BNB’s — and leaving the tent, stove, fuel, and food (other than snacks) at home. This would mean I could shave a total of 6 -7 lbs. off the bike because I would also leave the rack and rear panniers behind and take my saddle bag instead.

Much to consider and get done in a few days. I feel confident that the knee will cede to the ice and anti-inflammatories; and that carrying less weight on the bike and shortening the daily miles will be the route to go to Lubec, Maine. 

Days 28 — 30:
Start: Jamaica Plain, MA
Finish: Jamaica Plain, MA
Miles: 0

Once I’ve got the itinerary set, and the knee is ready, I’ll get rolling again — I figure about 3 days, or so, stay tuned.

What I’m Reading:

This trip is best treated as a Boston-to-Portland-to-Brunswick-to-Downeast progression, then a final push to Lubec. The East Coast Greenway Alliance notes Boston-to-Newburyport options with hotel/Airbnb lodging, and the Maine itineraries highlight lots of hotel and camping choices in Freeport and Brunswick, plus route guidance farther east in Maine.

— Perplexity, (via greenway.org) / “Route Structure” / Perplexity app

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in my neighborhood pt. 139 (today I did…)


4:54 am
7:07 am
3:27 pm
7:00 pm
10:38 pm

What I’m Reading:

On Reddit, cyclists agree that Specialized Tracer (and similar performance gravel) tires are notoriously tight and stubborn to change. Because they are designed to be run at lower pressures, they feature a stiff bead that can make mounting and removing them an incredible struggle . . . Changing a flat on a Specialized Tracer tire is notoriously difficult because Tracer tires (often used on gravel bikes) feature a tight, stiff bead designed to lock securely onto tubeless-ready rims. When replacing a flat, the secret is to push both sides of the tire bead into the central, deep channel of the rim (opposite the valve), which removes the tension so you can easily pry the bead over the rim. 

— Reddit·r/specialized 

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stitched the gap

Knot the Knee (again!)

I had a welcoming committee outside my door this morning (above) at the Stone Arches Bed and Breakfast this morning.

And the breakfast Paul cooks up is memorable. When the eggs are “still warm out of the chicken” fresh — they are memorable. First and second courses. Scones and bread cooked from scratch every morning, good stuff! Mansfield, CT.

The Stone Arches was built in 1694, so it’s seen a bicyclist or two — and a ton of parents of University of Connecticut students. The University is just down the road in Mansfield-Storrs, CT. 

Bette and Paul are great hosts, have 43 chickens and 5 roosters (so be prepared for the 4:15 am wake up calls) and keep the grounds looking fantastic. Mansfield, CT.

Rolling today I know it’ll be a slow, longish-feeling, slog as my energy is wonky and my right knee is very cranky. And the 3,000+ feet of elevation change won’t help, but at least the riding is through some beautiful back country roads that are lightly traveled by cars. I love “taking the lane.” Near Chaplin, CT.

Entering Eastford, CT.

Eastford, CT town green.

Later traversing Swedentown Road through the Nightingale Forest, a memorable 2.5 miles of raucous downhill gravel riding, near West Woodstock, CT.

A break in the elevation change and a view of Connecticut farmland in the Fabyan section of Thompson, CT.

A surprise (to me) farm stand en route to Worcester — the family owned farm and The Kitchen at New Boston Beef in Thompson, CT. 

They raise all grass-fed and hormone/antibiotic free cattle on the farm and sell the meat at the store, which also features some prepared foods and baked goods from the Wandering Whisk. Enough to cobble together a good lunch. Thompson, CT.

Just a bit later in Thompson / Quinebaug, CT, while crossing an inconspicuous intersection, I recognized this unremarkable convenience store. But it was remarkable to me …

… I hadn’t planned to pass through here today, but it was on my route. And it hit me — I’ve been here before! I’m done. Finished! 

I’ve now pieced together the ECG / AC routes from Key West, FL to Calais, ME at the Canadian border. I thought it would come at Putnam, CT, but I re-rerouted myself for a more direct route to Worcester, MA. And I hit this place unplanned! I thought I missed the opportunity by skirting north of Woodstock and Putnam, CT, but last year during an historic Nor’easter four of us cyclists congregated here at the Quick Mart for hot coffee and to sort out mechanical issues at 8am. 

And here I am again — I’ve stitched the gap closed! And I’m done covering the ground from the southernmost point in the US to the Canadian border in Maine — over 2,600 miles (alternate routes used, too — the Outer Banks, the Delmarva, and NJ’s Cape May to Highpoint route. 

A celebration of one ensued. This is why it was important for me to “ride my ride” when the Spinners fragmented — with a balky knee I had to make a beeline for these parts in Connecticut and somehow close the gap between Stafford Springs, CT and Putnam, CT and finish the ECG / AC route. Little did I intend for it to be here — but I’ll take it. Yay!

But I wasn’t done bicycling, I still had to get to Worcester and then take a day off (or two for the knee) and consider the alternatives for going to Lubec, ME.

But I’m done here with this endeavor— in this most inauspicious of places.

And soon from Quinebaug, within 10 minutes I was in my home state: Massachusetts.

The route cut through the center of the Nichols College campus in Dudley, MA. And it was gettting warm it was 81 degrees by the time I arrived in Dudley.

A field of Lupins in Auburn, MA.

Finally Worcester! And my right knee is screaming: Stop already! The highest elevation change on this trip at 3,135 feet — not major or terribly notable elevation change, but don’t tell that to my right knee.

My car rental place is right across the street from Polar Park, where the Worcester Red Sox (AAA farm team) plays its home games. Worcester, MA.

Oh, yes! Says my right knee — time to get home to Boston! 

The bike and panniers swallowed up by this SUV and ready to hit the road , approximately 45 miles to Boston. Worcester, MA.

At home it’s time to take a closer look at that ugly right knee (left of frame) — it’s looking like a volleyball or the head protuberance of a beluga whale. Jamaica Plain, MA.

No matter the angle — it doesn’t look normal . But I know how to treat it to get back on the bike in a couple of days:

  1. Lots of icing
  2. Anti-inflammatories
  3. Stay off it as much as possible

And when I get back on the bike on Saturday:

  1. Cap mileages around 50 miles at first, then limit to 70 miles at most on low elevation days.
  2. On higher elevation days keep mileage around 40-45 miles.

This seems to work for me, when I follow it. Had I avoided blowing out my knee playing football in college … oh, well … I get by.

Day 27:
Start: Mansfield, CT
Finish: Worcester, MA
Miles: 47.9

May 1 — May 27, 2026
Georgetown, SC — Worcester, MA
1,054.75 miles

The knee is already looking better after the first treatment, it’ll look almost normal in a couple of days. Then I’ll be back out.

What I’m Reading:

At dawn she gives birth to a gentle mist
flowers bow with wet sustenance  
                    luminescence all around

— Laura Tohe / “Female Rain”

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in this (my) neighborhood pt. 138 (last open gap)


Bridge of Flowers, Simsbury, CT.

Rolling through Blue Hills neighborhood north of Hartford, CT.

The Connecticut River, near Wilson, CT.

The Capt. John Bissel Trail runs parallel to Interstate 291, South Windsor, CT.

On the East Coast Greenway in Manchester, CT.

Greenway kiosk at Manchester Community College, Manchester, CT.

Lunch break before tackling a 10% grade hill going into Bolton, CT.
Bolton Town Green. Bolton, CT.
Strong Porter House, c. 1730. Coventry, CT.

The Nathan Hale Homestead, Coventry, CT.

Time for a Nerds and Celsius break in Coventry, CT.

The Nathan Hale Memorial and Cemetery, South Coventry, CT.

Unimproved road riding near Stoors Mansfield, CT.

Dairy farm near Stoors Mansfield, CT.

Nice spot for a break in the shade, Mansfield, CT.

The destination for tonight in Mansfield, CT.

The original building that several iterations of owners of the Stone Arches have improved upon dates back to 1694. Mansfield, CT.

Stone Arches Bed and Breakfast, Mansfield, CT.

Day 26:
Start: Simsbury, CT.
Finish: Mansfield, CT.
Miles: 45.2

Tomorrow I stitch the last open gap on this East Coast Trail / Atlantic Coast Route tour. But it won’t be in Putnam, CT, but at Woodstock, CT — the northernmost point where last years tour rolled through in Connecticut before turning west.

Once I reach Woodstock I will have technically finished piecing together the entire East Coast trails over the last two years. But I’ll continue riding to Worcester, Massachusetts today, and take the commuter train home from there, and consider continuing into Maine (I’ve done this twice before) — and how I’ll do it, and how far to go. Stay tuned.

What I’m Reading:

I collected the intensifiers of lightning
And | circled | them around me.
I named my seven sons
And then blew up their phones.

— Sara Deniz Akant / “War Poem”

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a drier day

greenway.org

Look, Sunshine!

I’m familiar with this area of New Haven from last year’s “15th annual Ride the State: From the Boathouse to the Statehouse” — a 67-mile fully supported bike ride in support of the East Coast Greenway(ECG), and specifically the ECG trails here in Connecticut. I stayed here last year, and the ride started from the boathouse — on the other side of the interstate just a block away.

The great thing about Connecticut on the ECG is that it has the highest percentage of completed route at 54%, which is over 111 miles on separated greenway away from traffic, and it doesn’t hurt that it’s nicely graded (read: flat), as opposed to the short punchy hills — sometimes 10% — that are quad burners so typical in southern CT.

The entire ride today should be on the Farmington Canal Heritage Trail, all the way to Simsbury, CT. Imagine nearly 40 miles on a greenway, no traffic, plenty of services, and hopefully no rain! That’s what I’m looking forward to today.

Hamden, CT later in the day.

I’ll be riding this year’s 16th Annual Ride the State: CT, on June 27 — and if you’re able, not only do you support the ECG in completing the trail in CT, and by extension the entire ECG, but you also ride with 199 other happy bicyclists, get SAG support, lunch provided, and a free commemorative shirt. It’s a good time, and a good cause.

Also with all the downtime this morning I calculated I’ve logged 915.25 miles on this ride. Technically, once I get to Putnam, CT, I will have covered all the miles contiguously from Key West, FL to Calais, ME: over 2,900 miles between last year’s ride and this year’s ride where I started in Georgetown, SC — using a combination of both the ECG and the Atlantic Coast routes.


Nerds fix later in the sunshine, Avon, CT.

As you can imagine, during the worst moments over the last two days, I was thinking I’d stop in Putnam, CT and call it a completion — but I set out to ride Maine for the third time (I also did it the last 2 years), and I want to finish what I set out to do. And there’s also a chance I’ll get to ride with some of the Spinners again. I’ll sort all of that out at home (Jamaica Plain / Boston) where I’ll take a couple of days off and reset for the home stretch.

I expect a drier day today. Twenty degrees warmer for a high (72) and very little rain after midday.

I eventually started the ride today at 11 am and … no rain! After 72 hours — no rain!

On the Farmington rail trail, skirting Yale University, on the East Coast Greenway. New Haven, CT.

 It was odd stopping for lunch an hour after starting, but if I started late my stomach didn’t  care. Tonino’s Pizzeria is right on the trail in Hamden, CT. During a long distance bike ride or a thru hike is the only time one can eat with caloric impunity, but it ain’t healthy — it is fuel… it was perfectly dry except the puddles — on I rode.

At 68° it may have been a bit cold for the turtles,  but the blue heron was on the hunt in Cheshire, CT. And later — a Celsius / Nerds break is in order, still eating like a 12 year old in Plainville, CT.

Bike related public art on the trail in Farmington, CT.

Two views of the Farmington River. Farmington, CT. By now it was 72 degrees, completing the 20 degree temperature swing from the last 3 days. Look, sunshine!

I met Steve in Avon, CT. He’s originally from Stoneham, MA, and we traded Boston and Maine stories. He also told me about the mysterious (to me) tower on the mountain over Avon. It was built by Gilbert Heublein — of A1 steak sauce and Smirnoff vodka fame — as a summer home in 1914. His “castle” on Talcott Mountain, “fulfilling a promise to his wife.”

Just after sighting the tower I was in Simsbury, CT — my stop for the night. At the very cool Powder Forest Guest House — easily my new favorite Air BnB location. 

After the endurance test of the last two days o couldn’t be any happier than how today turned out. A just balancing for the cold, wind-driven, rain and 50 degree couple of days. 

Day 25:
Start: New Haven, CT
Finish: Simsbury, CT
Miles: 46.4

Tomorrow a push east to Mansfield, CT. It sets me up for a long (84.6 mile) day home — or a optional 50-60 mile day to one of the commuter lines for a 20-30 mile train ride home. If I did hop the train, I’d come back out on the train Friday and ride the mileage home — if I were to be a “completist.” Although if you remember from above, once I’ve done the first 20 miles and hit the city park in Putnam, CT, I will have technically finished the trail. Do I stay on all the way to Lubec, ME, or call it a complete East Coast tour?

We’ll see…

(I’ll leave you with a Door Dash delivery of Plan B Burger Bar chicken sandwich … something to chew on …)

What I’m Reading:

The 204 miles of the East Coast Greenway in Connecticut showcase the state’s diversity, from coast to inland and city to country. In the eastern part of the state — the most rural and hilly stretch between Boston and Washington, D.C. — the route follows a series of state park trails connecting historic mill towns like Willimantic and winding through forests and farmland.

East Coast Greenway Alliance website / “Welcome to Connecticut”

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a slippery slope

Ain’t No Sunshine…

Frankly nothing makes me feel less than going out on a bike than 3 days of 50 degree wind driven rain — it’s hard to leave the comfort and warmth of the indoors, but: NO RAIN, NO PAIN, NO MAINE. And I intend to get to Maine. So out I go…


Stamford, CT.

I witnessed a late morning drama between geese parents, goslings, and a marauding seagull at Edson Park on the outskirts of Stamford, CT. The seagull seemed to be trying to poach one of the goslings, but the parents were successful foiling the gull. Then they saw me taking pictures of the scene, and when one made a beeline for me I was on my way again.

Days, and a series of 3 days as we’re experiencing, are endurance tests — type 2 fun— not truly enjoyable on its own terms, but enriched by what you’re able to wring out of your body and mind. This is what we sign up for when we take on  these long distance biking endeavors — but don’t think I didn’t consider jumping on the CT Transit train at various early points today, and saving myself some misery. But that’s too easy a solution, one needs to remember what they set out to do, bike to Maine. This moment at the Westport train station was the last time I considered skipping some mileage — that’s a slippery slope.

A moment by a private beach in Greens Farms, CT. The water was deceptively clam for such a high wind day. The beach in Fairfield, CT, and a Southport, CT public garden — which afforded a canopy for a short break.

It was a complete washout of a day — wall to wall torrents of rain & wind with temps in the mid-50s — just awful biking weather. Late start = a late lunch at Beverley’s Pizza in Bridgeport, CT. A hot coffee and half a chicken parm sub did the job fueling me to the next stop.

Wheels in Milford, CT was good for a Snickers bar, hot chocolate, and a break from the rain.

Oyster River Beach was deserted, as was every other beach I saw today. Today was also the first day I didn’t see a single bicyclist out on this tour. Seems everybody had better sense than I did and stayed inside today. Later the same dynamic at Veterans Park in West Haven, CT. 

It was heartening to see New Haven materialize beyond the mist. I was soaked, shivering, and leg tired.

The ECG had one more surprise at the Harbor Trail, which abuts a wildlife refuge — an unpaved path with interpretive signs.

New Haven, CT.
New Haven, CT.

And even a food truck festival about a mile from my hotel.

But I’m done and done! 49 miles in the cold wind driven rain — I’m stepping in fully clothed into a hot shower. Warmth, shower and laundry all at once.

Day 24:
Start: Stamford, CT
Finish: New Haven, CT
Miles: 48.6

Tomorrow’s the last day of this rain pattern. It should stop raining by midday … another late start in store? Then a series of sunny days with mild summer temps is forecast.

What I’m Reading:

My heart open like a burst fig my coffee
a pool staring back at me it’s dark & when
I’m not home I wake up with bug bites I’m
never home anymore my body is not home
to me it is a center I am trying to find

— Francesca Kritikos / “Kneeling”

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