Backcountry Roads

Coldest start yet: 43 degrees in Beaufort this morning, with a windchill of 32 degrees—winds are gusting up to 26 mph. I’ll take it over rain every time. Today’s high will only be 64.

I did some creative mapping in order to spend  as little time as possible on US 17. It’s impossible not to use the road: both Adventure Cycling and East Coast Greenway routes rely heavily on US 17 in Georgia and South Carolina, but I’m pedaling this section in a triangular shape as opposed to the arc-shaped route with numerous horseshoes that the map suggests.

This is an 80+ mile section without many services available to bicyclists. So I mapped a route to Walterboro, SC today, and tomorrow I’ll ride into the West Ashley suburb of Charleston.

I pedaled immediately to the Spanish Moss Trail where I rode 7 car and carefree miles…

Plenty of opportunities to enjoy the Lowcountry marshes and tidal flats right on the trail. 

A great blue heron on the wade for its next meal.

Another opportunity to ride through a man made structure—this one a culvert on the Spanish Moss Trail.

I noticed last week that the pollen was getting heavy around Townsend, GA, and it’s been getting heavier around here. That’s not a white stripe on my tire, it’s a layer of pollen.

US 17 was ok during the first part of the morning, especially as I was only on it for 1.6 miles, but later in the morning it was atrocious during a 7 mile stretch. The shoulder often had half an inch of gravel on it, causing fish tailing and loss of tire purchase.

But many of the roads I was on today were great. Quiet, low traffic, and drivers made plenty of room. Most of the time I could use the full lane it was so lightly traveled.

This was the only service available on today’s ride. The Albany Convenience store in Dale, SC…

… I’ll gladly support any business that supported Harris / Walz, a rarity in these parts.

Plenty of scenic swamp scenes throughout todays ride, this was in Seabrook, SC.

I didn’t encounter a car on this road for 5 miles.

The Harriet Tubman bridge over the Combahee River. This is near the scene of where she helped lead a rout of Confederate forces to help free over 700 enslaved people in 1863.

This type of backcountry road really puts on at ease even though there is no shoulder. Note the lass of traffic, no tractor-trailers, cars, and no sharp crap all over the road.

The tiny one room building that historically served as the White Hall, SC post office.

 It abutted the massive White Hall Plantation and Stables, almost a mile long as I pedaled by it.

When you route yourself sometimes you end up on unpaved roads. This one was firm enough and short enough.

Later, near Walterboro this road was longer and that sand was fine and loose, making for tough pedaling on the tires I’m riding. 

Lots of fish-tailing and effort expended on these roads—and frighteningly, lots of spent shotgun shells and beer bottles.

I’m done. Dinner and my room in sight.

Day 21
Start: Beaufort, SC
End: Walterboro, SC
Miles: 49.52

Tomorrow into the Charleston, SC area and a couple of days later a badly needed tune-up for the bike. While I will be riding everyday,I’ll spend two or three nights in the Charleston metropolitan area.

Here’s a gratuitous look at a quarter inch thick scad of pollen. Get your allergy meds.

What I’m Reading:

The kids at the park light a kite
on fire and watch it lift into the sky,
while back home later, everything I
touch feels like overripe fruit
right before it breaks open.

— Adam Clay / “Some Mood”